Day 20 - Dowry, Polruan, Polperro, Looe

Monday 5th August
Total: 391+m  / Daily: 18m  / Rain / Composer

It rained all morning. I met a couple walking the opposite direction who were also thinking of doing the 6 mile section I was heading towards but said 'not in the rain'. Cliff and Karen, thank you for your support, and yes, it was rather muddy/slippery in the rain. My poles helped a lot!

Polperro is a lovely little harbour town with tiny thin streets and has a rabbit warren feel about the place. My boots hadn't dried from yesterday and the rain slowly seeped its way into left boot, it began squelching. The heritage museum had lots of spare newspapers which I stuffed into both boots and wrung my socks. I think I'll order up my spare boots from base camp, perhaps sent to Salcombe for the Blitzkrieg assault I have planned on the last 10 days.

Spent two hours in a cafe (£100 per week!) wondering if the rain would stop. It didn't.

I composed my own set of lyrics to a song today. The original is by The Tallest Man on Earth, called Love Is All . Haven't got the guts to post the new lyrics to the world just yet.

Not a thrilling entry, but it rained a lot.

Oh, and the end came off the duct tape pole, wearing down the plastic now.

Day 16 - Mullion Cove, Lizard, Cadgwith, Coverack

Thursday 1st August

Total: 312+m / Daily:25m / Overcast clearing to Blue Skies / Fat Apples Cafe

I need to start putting the date on these as knowing the date becomes important when you try and plan when to get somewhere to meet someone!

Today I passed mainland England's most southerly point, increasing the checklist which now stands at: 

- SWCP highest point

- World's loudest snorer

- England's most westerly point

- England's most southerly point

High point of the day has to be stumbling across Fat Apples Cafe after walking late into the evening and thereby reducing tomorrow's mileage. I had seen the signs from a mile or so back but had little hope that it would still be open at 8pm. The signs started saying 'Good Cafe' and I began walking faster! Arriving at a clearing, the first thing I noticed was the apple trees and I sign reading 'Wild Camping and WiFi'. Internet access from my tent? Surely such things are not possible! I met Alex and Ed first, who were on the balcony of a nearby building and was soon introduced to the whole family.

They have lived here for 2 years and this is their first season running the cafe business. It was obvious from the very beginning that all of their heart's are in it and even their youngest at 15 talked with enthusiasm about the place. As Jacci said, there is real potential to get creative with what they offer here; they have the space, they obviously have the passion, anything is possible. I will come back when I am next in this part of the world and will buy charcoal, stoves, whatever you have on offer! It will be fascinating to see the development.

I was invited into their home for supper, given local beer to sample (I agree it needs more 'oomph') and treated like a friend. Your hospitality has been flawless and I wish you every success with the business. Thank you.

Other things today

- Met a Prostate cancer sufferer on path

- Saw a cottage being rethatched

- Explored caves at Kynance Cove

- Potentially saved someone's life, informing an Amish family that the beach they were settled on would become cut off by the tide in an hour

- Met a couple who have walked the entire SWCP in stages over a number of weekend each year, thank you for your support.

- Wandered through a disused quarry, zombie apocalypse feel to it

- Bought chips, onion rings, lemon cake, coffee cake (this has to stop!)

- Walked 25 miles and will get to Falmouth tomorrow