Day 9 - Port Isaac, Polzeath, Padstow

Total: 167+ / Daily:22m  / Rain + Sun / 1x Film Crew

My fundraising target is now set at £10 per mile. I wasn't sure about increasing the target but 10 is such a good figure and makes my walking maths easier!

Not a huge amount to report today. An early start saw me in Port Isaac by 11 and I couldn't help but order some food. This happened again in the evening when I reached Padstow, I might need to be a little careful that this doesn't turn into a regular occurrence. If it does, the cost of the walk will sky rocket!

Morning walk was wet for a short time, but the hours of walking against overgrown paths afterwards meant that lots of water ran down my legs and completely soaked the inside of my boots. I will wear overtrousers regardless of the heat in future, wet feet and boots are a pain to manage.

There was filming going in in Port Isaac which involved a car driving up the street (at normal speed) then stopping. It was thrilling to watch, but unfortunately I had places to go! The day panned out as the guide listed,  severe then strenuous then easy which is just as well, my feet feel rather delicate now and I actually walked the last 3 miles in crocs as it was mostly across the beach and tidal estuary banks.

Thanks to Quayside B&B for holding my package, I've now got my mini business cards to give when people want to know my blog address or donation page. 100 is the minimum order though ... So I have lots. Maybe I can leave one in every cafe, that would use at least 26! (26 more days).

Really looking forward to sleeping this evening and I'm slightly ahead of schedule so might go easy on my feet tomorrow with a slow start. I'm sure the hot spots will appreciate that.

Day 8 - Crackington Haven, Boscastle, Tintagel

Total: 146+ / Daily:19m  / Overcast, Sunny, Spots of Rain / 1 Seal

Having slept incredibly well, I lay dozing until 7 when I packed up and sat for a few minutes with WiFi connection outside the cottage. I had a photo from Emma with a notice board about her bake sale in aid of my fundraising and confirmation that the mini business cards would be in Padstow tomorrow, fantastic! There's some extra incentive to complete the highish distances needed today and tomorrow. The little things eh?

On a similar theme, today I did some mental maths! If I were able to reach £10 per mile, that sponsorship translates into £6.25 per kilometer and 0.625p per metre. If I get to a low moment, there's a good reason to take another step!

I saw a seal this morning as the path neared a cliff. It obviously saw me too and it vanished. I hoped it would become comfortable with my shadow and return. Sure enough, the seal reappeared and bobbed around for a while. It was diving, then emerging further along and swimming back against the current then diving again. The tide was coming in and the bay was curved, meaning that the water swirled around and the seal seemed to be playing in the currents. I sat and watched for about 5 minute, it was most entertaining!

There was a good number of other people walking today and the guide says it is a popular day walk route. This included 4 women who looked about 21 and were all dressed in flat shoes, handbags and short skirts. All a bit bizarre for a 'severe' section of the coastal path but one said they lived nearby, they seemed utterly bemused by the thought of walking alone and I sympathise with them, it is a little different!

Tintagel Castle ...or rather Tintagel Ruins were .. unimpressive actually. Granted, I don't know the history and the coastal 'wow factor' was lost on me, but it is still impressive to build a castle on the foundation of jagged rocks. .. Perhaps that's why it's not there anymore! I looked for the photo opportunity of 'Tintagel Castle and Pier' but couldn't see it.

Set back into the cliff and completely hidden from the road is Tintagel YHA, an old quarrying lodge from when this area was heavily mined for slate. I enquired about weather and distances, with no intention of staying (if I did, the total for tomorrow would stand at 21+miles to get the cards from Padstow on top of a 'severe' rating in the guide) and found common ground with the hostel manager in distance walking. After a long conversation (and a cup of tea from Jarka) the rain had moved across the bay and was coming towards us.

Changeover day at the hostel is tomorrow and I was kindly offered food which was spare. Two beef burgers with blue cheese, chips and a cream tea? Chef Macnair will walk 21+ miles tomorrow thank you very much!

Many thanks to Jarka who paid my membership as sponsorship for Prostate Cancer UK, your kindness is much appreciated.

Day 7 - Bude, Widemouth, Millook Haven

Total: 124+m / Daily:18m  / Overcast + Sunny / 'The Arduous Day'

For 'probably the most arduous day of the itinerary' this morning didn't seem to bad. I was already 2 miles into the 15mile section at the hostel so that helped I suppose. I was able to reach Bude (apologies if it gets published as Nude, my phone kindly autocorrects it) by lunchtime and ate a full English breakfast, delicious.

The day didn't start quite so successfully. I had the worst night sleep I have had in a long time. I was sleeping in a 4 man dorm with one other gentleman but it sounded more like a race track. I tried everything I could think of but nothing could stop him snoring for longer than 30 seconds. I took a 20 audio clip from my bunk which is pretty clear (I may upload it at some point) and I even went outside at 3am to escape, but I could still hear the snoring. I didn't have more than 30 minutes uninterrupted sleep from 11:45 to 5:30 when I got up and left. The joys of staying in a hostel dorm? There should be some sort of vetting process to stop this! Funny thing is, he probably had a great sleep..

Rather than hide from the sun, I decided to sit on the beach, catching up on a couple of hours sleep whilst casually learning how to surf, listening to an instructor teach a young group. I was thinking it might be fun to try somewhere, and Stan suggested the same thing later in the day. Bude turned into Widemouth and then I returned to steep rises and falls ending up in Millook Haven. For late in the day (6ish) there was a good number of people on the beach and I asked about camping on the grass around the 6/7 houses the valley had.

A lady with three pugs suggested that I walk a little way on a track beside a stream and ask at the cottage. She kindly showed me the way and introduced me to Lucy at a charming old cottage hidden back from the road with a stream and wooden bridge in the garden. Lucy allowed me to setup in one of the fields and just as I finished setting up, two lads appeared.

Lucy's son, Stan and his friend Ravi brought me a packet of Mini Cheddars and soon took an interest in what I'm doing, I was happy to field their questions as we played with Stan's diablo. The boys were called to have supper but returned with the offer of a cup of tea and a bath!

The cottage is just as charming inside as it is outside and the family visit every holiday, including all their Christmas holidays too. As the situation was being explained, I realised it is for them, what Treetops is for me. The light fitting in the bathroom was rusted and Lucy gave me a candle, I suggest they never fix the fitting, a candle is much better! So there I was, drinking a cup of tea in a hot bath, relaxing my knee by candlelight, there is no chance I would have guessed that as the end of the day. Lucy, thank you so much for your incredible hospitality to a complete stranger and I hope you and the boys enjoy the rest of your holiday.

A late night by walking standards at 10.30, I highly doubt tomorrow will be as interesting!

Day 6 - Hartland

Total: 109+m / Daily: 6m  / Overcast, Patchy Sun / Attempted Day Off

Waking up with the sunrise, I thought it was going to be another hot day but fortunately the sun was obscured for most of the day which meant the breeze was pleasantly cooling. Arriving at Hartland Quay at about 9, the hotel was just beginning to wake and an employee was turning back over the benches and setting up for the day. I enquired about getting a lift into town and he offered a free coffee whilst he asked if any of the staff were heading up.

Outside, I met my first set of people who are walking the entire coast. 'Coaster Coast' are a three man crew walking the length for Kidney Research UK and St. Margarets Hospice (www.facebook.com/ coaster_coast_9). They set off a couple of days before I did and alternate with two walking and one on luggage transfer for the day. They have sponsorship from a brewery and as a consequence, have every night accomodation and various drinks/meals paid for ... I missed a trick there. Do you think Manx2 (a local airline) would sponsor me?

I spent a few hours in Hartland village after waiting all of three minutes for a lift on the quayside. The local church, St. Nectans run a tea room in the village and I had two cups of tea and cake for £3.50. Not only did it have WiFi, but the change from the £5 note which I said to put in the church collection was handed back as a donation towards my fundraising, thank you St. Nectans.

My options to get to the YHA were all fairly unsatisfactory, lack of buses/taxis coupled with the fact that everywhere useful (the coast, the village and the hostel) were all 3+ miles apart meant that I was going to have to walk on my 'knee resting day'. A local man, dropped me two miles back towards the coast and I wandered on, keeping an eye on the signs so as not to miss the turning towards the hostel. I found a lovely spot at Speke's Mill Mouth, where the track left the path at a secluded grassy cove. I pitched the inner skin of my tent, made a coffee and proceeded to nap for 2 hours. A food bag makes a surprisingly good pillow slipped inside a neck buff. I met Justin and he kindly took a photo of me enjoying my day off (photos will follow when I have a solid connection). Just as they were leaving, his daughter ran up with a donation, thank you Justin, Daisy and family for your support. (Emma, we need those cards!)

Elmscott YHA provided a welcome rest and the opportunity to wash clothes. It feels good to be clean, if only for a few more hours! The forecast is for thunderstorms over the next few days, I hope I don't melt in the rain...

Day 5 - Peppercombe, Clovelly

Total: 98+m / Daily: ~18  / Sunny / Exploding hedges

The exploding hedges reference above is due to the fact that little birds (pheasants, grouse etc.) like to hide in the hedge row and then panic when humans get close. Their panic leads to an explosion of feathers and flapping as the bird narrowly misses my head. I imagine they must have quite springy legs to jump up and then fly? I don't know.

I met a young couple in Buck's Mill and the man asked if I was fundraising. I've now collected my first donation whilst walking and he shared the story of his father who was affected by Prostate Cancer. I listened carefully as he explained what had happened, I like to think I was helping him in some way by listening and after we parted ways he shook my hand and wished my Dad all the best. Walking away, I found myself overcome by emotion, I can't really explain it, but we really had shared a moment together whilst chatting. I wish I had his email address so I could share this blog or even his name, my mistake for not asking. I think when I get some time at a computer I will create a few information cards, business card sized things with a link to this blog and perhaps the charity website or my JustGiving page - there have been a few occasions they would have been useful now.

Sun break and lunch of scampi and chips finished, I set off from Clovelly's New Inn Bar, taking a photo on the way out of the narrow streets and overhanging verandahs which characterise 'England's most picturesque town' according to my guide.

A slow afternoon/evening brought me through many fields of rolling cliff edged fields to a bench and lookout where I could see Hartland radar tower, my finsihing mark for tomorrow. In the previous field I was happily approaching the cows on the path, safe in the knowledge that they always retreat, until I realised that it was a bull. Oh. "Nice bull.. There's a good bull" I  chose to leave the path temporarily.

Day 4 - Saunton, Braunton, Barnstaple, Instow, Appledore, Westward Ho!

Total: 88+m / Daily: ~22m  / Sunny / Bikes: 100s

Last night I pitched my tent next to a little wooden building with the name 'The Shack' carved on a plate above the door frame. Having read 'The Shack', I was a little concerned that I might come across The Holy Trinity in my unconscious state but actually had quite a comfortable night sleep. As a hiker, sleeping on the edge of an 'Area of Specialist Natural Interest' roughly translates as, 'if you sleep here there will be birds!' low flying birds at that. Many birds!

Today began with a long walk along the beach, where the hard sand turned to soft sand for no apparent reason and walking poles were useless. Having said that it was soft underfoot, but somewhat slow going. Missing the turn off the beach into the dunes took me to the edge of the estuary and added 2 or so miles to the day.

I then followed the edge of the estuary into Braunton and linked up with cycle route 'The Tarka Trail' which connects the various towns and forms part of the Devon Coast to Coast Cycle Route. This meant concrete, lots and lots of concrete. So much concrete that I think the bottom of my feet had began to bruise, on the plus side, the flat meant that my knee was quite happy to pound tarmac all day.

I spent a good 3 hours in the Fremington Quay cafe hiding from the midday sun and decided to sit inside, a mistake considering there was no breeze and no air conditioning. The waitress told me that their kitchen thermometer read 37℃ yesterday, not exactly ideal working conditions!

The Instow Ferry which links Instow with Appledore is listed in the SWCP Association guide as an 'alternative route' but as far as I'm concerned, rivers simply don't count as coast and you should cross them as soon as possible. The book sometimes suggests the ferry and other times (like today) just lists that they exist. The same of true of the (new) Barnstaple bridge, the official route marches you along more concrete into the town and back out. I have enough of a challenge on my hands without having to trace rivers inland!

Feeling ok after fish and chips on the quaysidein Appledore, I wandered on to Westward Ho! ... (that must be shouted whilst pointing west, as if riding a horse) Are there any other place names with an exclamation mark in them? I suspect none with a name to match! The amount of icecream being sold made most of the national papers at some point over the last few days and I suspect Westward Ho! contributed its fair share, the little stalls were everywhere and all appeared to be trading well.

Walking out of the town I met an elderly couple sitting on a bench about 2 miles outside of town who were interested to hear my story. The man was an ex scout leader and DoE assessor for 15 years and had many questions about distances, gear, supplies etc. And he took an interest in my cooking facilities. Show and tell over, I walked a further mile to pitch on flat grass next to a family enjoying a fire together on what I gathered was their first camping trip.

Sunset was brilliant and I briefly thought about how the miles I had gained today would help with my planned day off at Hartland on Monday.

* Photo of my arm shows that it was so hot that when I tried to read the paper, the crossword ended up on my arm.

Day 3 - Ilfracombe, Woolacombe, Croyde

Total: 54m / ~19m  / Sunny / Sunseakers:1000+

The first thing I did today (after sitting up) was to take 2 painkillers. The walk into Ilfracombe wasn't too bad and I feel my pole technique is improving although I'm all over the place going downhill. I was thinking about painkillers and then onto ice as a painkiller. The only reason ice is applied is to numb pain, this can then trick the body into producing less fluid as it thinks the problem is going away, thereby reducing swelling. All of this information comes off the side of my new tubegrip knee support, which (rather worryingly) is white. White is a bad idea for long walks for rather obvious reasons, perhaps it can become my clothes washing indicator.

A fantastic walk around Lee Bay, Bull Point and Morte Point took me past inaccessible sandy coves, a stunning lighthouse with converted holidays cottages, rocky outcrops and undulating hills (of which these ones did slightly more undulating than I was expecting). My first sight of Woolacombe was thousands of sunseakers on the vast sandy beach and the little town perched on the edge. It was slightly later than I had hoped and I found welcome shade at the Sea Breeze Ice Cream and Coffee Shop.

Lunch was accompanied by a show as a lady from Birmingham became more and more irate with her broken down car. One man suggested that it 'sounds like a fault with the petrol pump,' how can you tell? I have no idea whether he was qualified to make that comment, all I know is that it sounds like it won't start!

Across Woolacombe beach I climbed up around the headland and was able to see right the way across the next huge bay (with Barnstaple in the middle) all the way to Hartland, where where I will hopefully be spending Monday night in the YHA.

The Saunton Hotel, starting at £110 per room per night was a little out of my price range, so a pizza beside the beach and sleeping in my tent will do nicely!

If you look carefully at the rock photo you will see two people. One abseiled down the rope attached coiled in his bag and the other clipped in and came down the same rope.