Day 11 - Newquay, Holywell Bay, Perranporth

Total: 202+m  / Daily:20m  / Sun, Overcast, Rain / 1x Naked Photoshoot

I had nice spot to camp last night: a headland some way away from Newquay but with a view looking at it across the bay. In Newquay by mid morning I decided not to stay for long, only visiting Aldi (which I did not know doesn't accept credit cards!) before heading on past the famous Fistral Beach. I walked a narrow path between the sand dunes and the golf course, sand was slowly but surely getting into my boots.

Sand dunes, or beaches were in sight for the vast majority of today and I saw 100s if not 1000s of surfers across the various spots today. Sand makes for progress slow, especially when it's soft sand but I was happy enough, dragging my poles and making patterned trails as I went.

The ferry service at Fern Pit had turned into a wooden bridge, one which they use when the tide is fully out and it has floating supports so that it is at the right height. There was no mention of this in the guide book so it made a pleasant surprise. I had my photo taken by a lady who sympathises with my cause and I wish her the best with next week. It'll be interesting to see whether that photo makes it here.

WARNING, the following paragraph contains references to scenes of a sexual nature and is not suitable for younger audiences. Well, perhaps that is a little strong, but now that you are paying attention: I rounded a corner of a rocky headland to yet another sandy cove and there were 3 people all looking down. I assumed a seal or some sort of animal. Once I got close enough to see down there were 7 or 8 people looking down into a secluded part of the beach. A lady with long back hair was posing naked against the rocks whilst a photographer captured the moment. This continued as she held various poses, completely oblivious to her audience who were chatting and giggling above.

I camped on a flat grassy spot at some disused mines. Wasn't sure whether I was going to disappear down the cliff in the night! There are a number of blow holes, caged with iron which look a little odd sticking up out of the ground.

I managed to withdraw some cash without paying the charge for taking cash on a credit card thanks to the prompt machine at the card company's call centre after I phoned to try and pay it off. However I can't do that again and will have to pay some interest next time... Any bright ideas for how to do the next 400m on £100 cash (and card)?

Day 4 - Saunton, Braunton, Barnstaple, Instow, Appledore, Westward Ho!

Total: 88+m / Daily: ~22m  / Sunny / Bikes: 100s

Last night I pitched my tent next to a little wooden building with the name 'The Shack' carved on a plate above the door frame. Having read 'The Shack', I was a little concerned that I might come across The Holy Trinity in my unconscious state but actually had quite a comfortable night sleep. As a hiker, sleeping on the edge of an 'Area of Specialist Natural Interest' roughly translates as, 'if you sleep here there will be birds!' low flying birds at that. Many birds!

Today began with a long walk along the beach, where the hard sand turned to soft sand for no apparent reason and walking poles were useless. Having said that it was soft underfoot, but somewhat slow going. Missing the turn off the beach into the dunes took me to the edge of the estuary and added 2 or so miles to the day.

I then followed the edge of the estuary into Braunton and linked up with cycle route 'The Tarka Trail' which connects the various towns and forms part of the Devon Coast to Coast Cycle Route. This meant concrete, lots and lots of concrete. So much concrete that I think the bottom of my feet had began to bruise, on the plus side, the flat meant that my knee was quite happy to pound tarmac all day.

I spent a good 3 hours in the Fremington Quay cafe hiding from the midday sun and decided to sit inside, a mistake considering there was no breeze and no air conditioning. The waitress told me that their kitchen thermometer read 37℃ yesterday, not exactly ideal working conditions!

The Instow Ferry which links Instow with Appledore is listed in the SWCP Association guide as an 'alternative route' but as far as I'm concerned, rivers simply don't count as coast and you should cross them as soon as possible. The book sometimes suggests the ferry and other times (like today) just lists that they exist. The same of true of the (new) Barnstaple bridge, the official route marches you along more concrete into the town and back out. I have enough of a challenge on my hands without having to trace rivers inland!

Feeling ok after fish and chips on the quaysidein Appledore, I wandered on to Westward Ho! ... (that must be shouted whilst pointing west, as if riding a horse) Are there any other place names with an exclamation mark in them? I suspect none with a name to match! The amount of icecream being sold made most of the national papers at some point over the last few days and I suspect Westward Ho! contributed its fair share, the little stalls were everywhere and all appeared to be trading well.

Walking out of the town I met an elderly couple sitting on a bench about 2 miles outside of town who were interested to hear my story. The man was an ex scout leader and DoE assessor for 15 years and had many questions about distances, gear, supplies etc. And he took an interest in my cooking facilities. Show and tell over, I walked a further mile to pitch on flat grass next to a family enjoying a fire together on what I gathered was their first camping trip.

Sunset was brilliant and I briefly thought about how the miles I had gained today would help with my planned day off at Hartland on Monday.

* Photo of my arm shows that it was so hot that when I tried to read the paper, the crossword ended up on my arm.