Day 27 - Babbacombe, Teignmouth, Dawlish, Starcross, Exmouth, Salterton

Monday 12th August
Total: 520+m  / Daily: 20m  / Cloudy clearing to Blue Skies /

The traffic was slow moving heading back towards Torquay/Babbacombe meaning an 11 o'clock start. I'm not fussed about walking far today but it would be frustrating to arrive at a river crossing after the ferry has stopped running.

I made the crossing over the River Exe with about 30 seconds to spare. I saw the ferry pulling up to the pontoon as I was walking down on the west side of the river. It was 5pm and my guide said the ferry ran until 6. However, I did start walking a little quicker thinking that it would save some time to have a break on the boat rather than on the pontoon and on the boat. The route to the ferry took 10 minutes winding in and out of the train station and I saw a man closing up the ferry crossing sales hut. I shouted over and it's just as well I did, it was their last crossing going to Exmouth and their last crossing of the day would return to Starcross where I was. Close one.

It was another day with a lot of concrete and promenade, but not as much of an issue as the other day because it was that little bit cooler. I met Andy going in the other direction who had been walking for about the same time as I have, walking over to the SWCP marker at Poole before setting out himself. Thank you for your donation. Also met Kevin who is aiming to walk the length. He warned me of Dorset and specifically the gradient, but a few well timed early mornings and it should be no worry.

I passed the start of the Jurassic Coast section which covers the next 95 miles of coast and contains evidence from millions of years of history. Climbing a zigzag path at the end of Exmouth there were fun fact signposts. It took a long time, but I didn't notice the hill and had a lot of fun. Clever Devon council.

Day 22 - Wembury, Mothecombe (Erme River) Bigbury-on-sea, Hope Cove

Wednesday 7th August
Total: 445+m  / Daily: 22m  / Blue Skies / Unexpected Surprises

Today was a big day, both in terms of miles and the thought had gone into it. Everything seemed to work and the timings were perfect. I got to the wade crossing at low tide and made the ferry before it stopped running 30 minutes later. I'm on track for the plan of Dartmouth by 2pm on Friday to get the bus to my day off.

I crossed three rivers today, by three different modes of transport. I arrived at Warren Point at 9am with the crossing service running from 10 and I'd even forced myself to stay in bed until 7:30 this morning. I was happily watching crabs scuttle around as the tide was going out when a lady, Jane rowed nearby and asked where I was going. I hadn't been paying much attention as there were a number of people rowing over to their yachts but Jane offered me a lift over to the other side! She explained how she often came out and 'pottered' on the water if it's a nice morning. Anyone who uses that word instantly has my attention, it really is a good word! A personal rowed boat ride across, what a fantastic start to the day.

The route then continued on a superb high level path which I motored along, only interupted by the inconsiderate land slippage diversion which sent me straight up the headland perpendicular to the water's edge.

Crossing two was the Erme river which I arrived at at low tide. I expected it to be remote but there was a relatively large number of people there considering there was no road access. The path was getting progressively steeper and there were some serious climbs in and around midday which weren't enjoyable. I did manage to fit in a 30 minute kip under a large hawthorn bush in the shade which broke the strenuous terrain.

I was caught up by a man who obviously knew the area and an experienced walker himself. Mike is a cartographer who started out producing orienteering maps and is now creating cycling and walking maps for the south east coast. I had many questions and we chatted whilst walking towards the 3rd and final crossing by boat ferry. Using orienteering map software, Mike creates very detailed 1:12500 maps based on Victorian maps as OS maps are protected by a lengthy copyright. fascinating! Thank you for your kind donation Mike. (http://www.croydecycle.co.uk/)

As we were just leaving the Thurlestone Sands area I heard a call of 'Al!'. I discarded the first for someone else but spun around on the second call to see Alice Bennett tearing down the path barefoot! I will be stopping in two days to visit her twin sister who is arriving on Friday, what an incredible coincidence. Alice happened to turn around and recognise me in the 15 second window I was walking past the sandy cove that she was sitting in with Chris and Maureen. The temptation to break early was definitely there, but I decided to continue as planned until Friday. It was still lovely to spend an hour or so sitting on the beach, chatting, catching up etc. and I looked forward to seeing you again soon! Thank you Alice and Chris for your kind donations.

My day ended in the Hope and Anchor pub:
Waitress: The second set of cutlery sir?
Me: No, no. That won't be necessary.

Day 21 - Portwrinkle, Cremyll, Plymouth, Mount Batten

Tuesday 6th August
Total: 419+m  / Daily: 21m  / Blue Skies / Town

Yesterday, a family was sitting on a bench in East Looe and the children were crabbing off the harbour. Crabbing consists of 4 steps:
1. Put bacon in mesh net and tie shut
2. Tie fishing line to net and drop in harbour
3. Raise net with crab grabbing onto the side of the net
4. Put crab in water bucket.
Repeat. 

Anyway, the bacon always seems to be in little red or blue plastic bags and the seaguls seemed to have worked that out too. One doomed herring gul swooped in, stole the bag and sat down with it a little way along the quay. The parents noticed but the children were too busy with their crustacean friends to witness what happened. After a few failed pecks, the herring gul stopping try to get the bacon and started eating the bag. It was actually quite disturbing to watch as it had its beak through one of the little handles, so that once it had swallowed the bag whole, the handle straps were wrapped around its beak then disappeared down its throat. I don't particularly like herring guls, but unless it manages to regurgitate the bag, that bird is not going to have a pleasant time to say the least, I couldn't help but feel sorry for it as it flew off.

I camped in a perfect spot last night and watched the sun set and rise. The sea had calmed a lot and the clouds had blown out, there was a real sense of calm. (see first few photos). Walking along this morning, the mist was literally pouring off the cliffs into the sea, quite spectatular to watch and fun to walk through as I wandered around a golf course looking for the exit path.

A big morning (15m) brought me into Plymouth for a slow afternoon and lunch in various stages along the paved walkways. I've come up with a cunning plan to get me ahead before I take a planned day off on Friday. This plan took some thinking through because I had to juggle ferry times, tide times (the Elme has no ferry), town distances, and days. More details will no doubt appear on future days if it happens but I don't want to commit myself to it just yet. Friday is still a surprisingly long way off.

One ferry across to Mount Batten now then a couple of hours 'easy' walking towards Wembury.

Day 18 - Mylor, Portscalo, Portloe

Saturday 3rd August
Total: 348+m  / Daily: 18m  / Blue Skies / Boat Ride

I forgot to elaborate on growling bushes from yesterday. I've been looking at the blackberry bushes for a while now, mostly green berries, some turning red but nothing black yet. However, yesterday I started seeing a few black berries. Assuming they'd all be bitter I ignored the temptation but one bush was covered with black, large, juicy looking berries. They were higher up and on top of the bush but I could reach, standing right up against it and leaning in slightly. It was at that point a heard a loud, deep growl from very close by. I have absolutely no idea what animal was there, but it was beside my feet and growling, I carried swiftly on!
_____

Showered, rested, dry and thoroughly content was my mood this morning. And that was before Ivor cooked up a storm. Breakfast bagels, with bacon, egg, peppers, mushroom, cheese & chilli sauce. Very American and very delicious. We left the dock mid morning with everyone coming for the ride. The guide gives details of the two ferries needed to cross the estuary. Only need one when the service is being provided for you! I said my goodbyes at Place and got back to it, psychologically prepared for a wet day after looking at Erica's iPad weather. Thank you very much to the Scott's for their hospitality.

Four hours into the baking sun I wondered where the rain was. Ah, those black clouds offshore probably have something to do with it... We'll see.

I walked until late looking for a spot to camp and ended up stumbling upon Gorran Haven. Not keen to walk through the village and out the other side, I pitched on the next flat patch of grass overlooking the harbour. 18 miles is too much for an 11am start, I was shattered and fell asleep very quickly not bothering to inflate my sleeping pad.

Day 11 - Newquay, Holywell Bay, Perranporth

Total: 202+m  / Daily:20m  / Sun, Overcast, Rain / 1x Naked Photoshoot

I had nice spot to camp last night: a headland some way away from Newquay but with a view looking at it across the bay. In Newquay by mid morning I decided not to stay for long, only visiting Aldi (which I did not know doesn't accept credit cards!) before heading on past the famous Fistral Beach. I walked a narrow path between the sand dunes and the golf course, sand was slowly but surely getting into my boots.

Sand dunes, or beaches were in sight for the vast majority of today and I saw 100s if not 1000s of surfers across the various spots today. Sand makes for progress slow, especially when it's soft sand but I was happy enough, dragging my poles and making patterned trails as I went.

The ferry service at Fern Pit had turned into a wooden bridge, one which they use when the tide is fully out and it has floating supports so that it is at the right height. There was no mention of this in the guide book so it made a pleasant surprise. I had my photo taken by a lady who sympathises with my cause and I wish her the best with next week. It'll be interesting to see whether that photo makes it here.

WARNING, the following paragraph contains references to scenes of a sexual nature and is not suitable for younger audiences. Well, perhaps that is a little strong, but now that you are paying attention: I rounded a corner of a rocky headland to yet another sandy cove and there were 3 people all looking down. I assumed a seal or some sort of animal. Once I got close enough to see down there were 7 or 8 people looking down into a secluded part of the beach. A lady with long back hair was posing naked against the rocks whilst a photographer captured the moment. This continued as she held various poses, completely oblivious to her audience who were chatting and giggling above.

I camped on a flat grassy spot at some disused mines. Wasn't sure whether I was going to disappear down the cliff in the night! There are a number of blow holes, caged with iron which look a little odd sticking up out of the ground.

I managed to withdraw some cash without paying the charge for taking cash on a credit card thanks to the prompt machine at the card company's call centre after I phoned to try and pay it off. However I can't do that again and will have to pay some interest next time... Any bright ideas for how to do the next 400m on £100 cash (and card)?