Day 28 - Sidmouth, Branscombe Beer, Seaton, Lyme Regis, Charmouth

Tuesday 13th August
Total: 544+m  / Daily: 27m  / Blue Skies / A near death experience

4ish miles to Sidmouth, I was wandering along the sea front and hung my tent out to dry after a large amount of condensation has built through the night, it was much colder and I think I perhaps should have inflated my Thermarest. I was approached by a man who asked what I was doing and subsequently offered a coffee and break in his cafe across the way. I was planning on a coffee there but not a cooked breakfast too and he kindly offered both as a donation. The food at The Pea Green Boat was delicious and I would recommend it if you are visiting this regency town. Any place with bloody mary as the first item on the menu gets my vote.

There has been a noticeable increase in the number of information boards over the last couple of days and I've been learning about geology, plants and birds. Or rather, I've been fascinated by the information and then forgotten it straight away. It's probably been the same board over and over... One fun thing though is that sea-holly (that spiky scrub like plant you find in sand dunes) is closely related to the carrot!

The rocks round these parts were formed over 260million years ago which is apparently 1000 years per step through the Jurrasic Coast section (96 miles) that's 260,000 steps, which is roughly 2,700 steps per mile, or 135 steps per minute (based on 3 mph) which is 2.25 steps per second, probably about right. I agree with the sign.

Later in the day I came across a sign (see below) and with about 0.2l of water left, I thought 'can't be that bad'. I met two lads about 20years old who said I'd regret it but I chose to carry on. The area in question is called The Undercliff (already sounds ominous) and I had my pennies ready in order to enter! It was formed in the 1800s when I massive landslip caused a section 1km wide and up to 100m deep to drop into the sea forming a new section of low level land where there has been no human influence except the path since. My guide describes it as having 'an almost eerie character' and that '[it] feels claustrophobic at times' but if you have spent time wandering through forests this simply isn't the case. I felt quite comfortable and thoroughly enjoyed the wooded landscape with its dense scrub and heavily vined trees (see recent photos in the album).

Having survived The Underworld, I had supper sitting on the prom of Seaton watching boys play on their scooters and skateboards. I wanted to show one lad how to jump on a scooter properly.. but thankfully avoided the potential for massive embarresment and thought better of it. Walked late, setting up camp on top of a flat topped hill (one away from Golden Cap, the highest point on the south coast) and slept comfortably in a grassy spot amongst the heather.

Day 27 - Babbacombe, Teignmouth, Dawlish, Starcross, Exmouth, Salterton

Monday 12th August
Total: 520+m  / Daily: 20m  / Cloudy clearing to Blue Skies /

The traffic was slow moving heading back towards Torquay/Babbacombe meaning an 11 o'clock start. I'm not fussed about walking far today but it would be frustrating to arrive at a river crossing after the ferry has stopped running.

I made the crossing over the River Exe with about 30 seconds to spare. I saw the ferry pulling up to the pontoon as I was walking down on the west side of the river. It was 5pm and my guide said the ferry ran until 6. However, I did start walking a little quicker thinking that it would save some time to have a break on the boat rather than on the pontoon and on the boat. The route to the ferry took 10 minutes winding in and out of the train station and I saw a man closing up the ferry crossing sales hut. I shouted over and it's just as well I did, it was their last crossing going to Exmouth and their last crossing of the day would return to Starcross where I was. Close one.

It was another day with a lot of concrete and promenade, but not as much of an issue as the other day because it was that little bit cooler. I met Andy going in the other direction who had been walking for about the same time as I have, walking over to the SWCP marker at Poole before setting out himself. Thank you for your donation. Also met Kevin who is aiming to walk the length. He warned me of Dorset and specifically the gradient, but a few well timed early mornings and it should be no worry.

I passed the start of the Jurassic Coast section which covers the next 95 miles of coast and contains evidence from millions of years of history. Climbing a zigzag path at the end of Exmouth there were fun fact signposts. It took a long time, but I didn't notice the hill and had a lot of fun. Clever Devon council.

Day 26 - Dartmouth, Brixham, Goodrington, Paignton, Torquay, Babbacombe

Sunday 11th August
Total: 500+m  / Daily: 23m  / Blue Skies / Hot Concrete

I was dropped off in Dartmouth on the other side of the river at 7am, convenient as the ferry only runs from 9 on Sunday. It was a quiet start and I didn't see a single person for 3 hours. A welcome difference from the rest of the day looking retrospectively. I did meet Ken, who expressed his envy for my walk. Thank you for your donation.

Brixham was busy, it was lunchtime on Sunday so no surprise really. Lunch was a very large meat pasty and sausage roll which I ate on a harbourside bench watching the herring gulls' confidence increase. Later, I watched a man throwing chips to them whilst he and his family were eating and they ended up abandoning their table, the birds were dive bombing the chip container! Foolish man...

There were short countryside sections which did break up the busy concrete promenade which dominated the day. These stretches were also busy with lots of day walkers. I tried saying hello to a few, but got the 'why are you talking to me? Do I know you?' look in return. For a section with so many people, it was rather isolated walking, not including the man out for the day with his three boys with whom I shared a welcome conversation.

The day ended with a steep descent down to a beach and equally steep ascent (I didn't take the Victorian cliffside railway). On the plus side, I was met by a smiling Heather at the top, the rest of the collection party was traveling down and up the cliff on the railway. My cumulative ascent is now over 90,000 ft (23,000m), I have walked 500miles and I will walk 130.3 more (said to the tune of The Proclaimers).

Final time in the luxury of Hope Cove this evening then back to camping for the last week.

Day 25 - Day Off

Saturday 10th August
Total: 476m  / Daily: 0m  / Blue Skies /

Didn't wear walking boots once today. I spent the night at the Bennett's yesterday. So today, the morning was with the Bennett's and the afternoon with the Macnair's. There was a cross over at 4pm and cream tea for 9 was quite something!
Back to walking updates tomorrow.

* Photo Album *

A photo album is now publicly shared (on the right below Glympse) with most photos from the walk.

I will continue to add one or two photos to posts, but most will appear in the album.

(click on it to view full size)

Day 24 - Torcross, Dartmouth

Friday 9th August 
Total: 476+m  / Daily: 13m  / Blue Skies / Half Day

Spend a lovely morning off, went for a little walk with family and then explored Salcombe. Odd to be back in the same place a second time but nice to take it slowly and we had a long lunch down by the water watching boats in the harbour.

I still wanted to keep on track with my plan and did a little walking in the afternoon. 13miles in 3hrs and 50 mins, possibly the fastest I have walked yet - but it worked out very well. I was wearing new boots today which are certainly not as comfy as the not-so-waterproof old ones, but they will get there in a couple of days. Wearing them for a half day to start with was a good idea as my feet did ache after a few hours.

I was picked up from Dartmouth in a car returning from the airport with additional visitors. Dropped off in Loddiswell, I spent the evening catching up with friends. Thank you Alan and Maureen Bennett for your hospitality.
Tomorrow is a complete day off and I'll be back in Hope Cove for the evening. All of this luxury has come at once!

Day 23 - Salcombe

Thursday 8th August
Total: 454+m  / Daily: 13m  / Blue Skies / More Surprises

I was taking it very slowly today, knowing that 16 miles would put me 10 miles from where I wanted to be tomorrow. Had I known what was planned I would have moved much faster! I took an hour off sitting in Salcombe eating second breakfast. Kate had recommended a bakery and I saw a lot of people in the town with brown bakery bags. When I got there, the queue was ten strong out of the door, a good reason alone to join! Cheese twist and pain au chocolat for breakfast was an interesting mix, but I wasn't complaining.

A further hour off for lunch, and afternoon nap for an hour meant it was 3 and I'd done 13. I met back up with Mike (see yesterday) who was revising his Salcombe-Torcross map and also met a couple of men who were doing a week walking (a stage of a bigger SWCP walk over a few years) with what appeared to be matching gear. A 2.5 mile diversion due to the path being 'impassable' would have added a further hour on, but fortunately gardens are not impassable and the kind lady in said garden said she wouldn't look as I took literally 30 steps around the landslip instead of thousands on the official route.

Coming up towards First Point lighthouse someone said 'hello' and I instantly recognised the voice. Becks was standing on the hillside in the middle of nowhere (in my mind) with a grin on her face! Further up were my mum and dad and they are all here until Monday! What a surprise, it was so completely unexpected! Mum always has liked her surprises and the waitress gave away part of another surprise later saying we were at a table of 6 tomorrow evening! Whoops, I don't know who though.

This opens up all sorts of questions and decisions to make about what to do over the next few days. These will propably be mentioned in tomorrow but I will still be taking my day off as planned and will be heading over to Loddiswell as planned. But for now, I'm wearing a collared shirt and nice shorts, I even used hair gel before going down to supper in the restaurant!