Day 22 - Wembury, Mothecombe (Erme River) Bigbury-on-sea, Hope Cove

Wednesday 7th August
Total: 445+m  / Daily: 22m  / Blue Skies / Unexpected Surprises

Today was a big day, both in terms of miles and the thought had gone into it. Everything seemed to work and the timings were perfect. I got to the wade crossing at low tide and made the ferry before it stopped running 30 minutes later. I'm on track for the plan of Dartmouth by 2pm on Friday to get the bus to my day off.

I crossed three rivers today, by three different modes of transport. I arrived at Warren Point at 9am with the crossing service running from 10 and I'd even forced myself to stay in bed until 7:30 this morning. I was happily watching crabs scuttle around as the tide was going out when a lady, Jane rowed nearby and asked where I was going. I hadn't been paying much attention as there were a number of people rowing over to their yachts but Jane offered me a lift over to the other side! She explained how she often came out and 'pottered' on the water if it's a nice morning. Anyone who uses that word instantly has my attention, it really is a good word! A personal rowed boat ride across, what a fantastic start to the day.

The route then continued on a superb high level path which I motored along, only interupted by the inconsiderate land slippage diversion which sent me straight up the headland perpendicular to the water's edge.

Crossing two was the Erme river which I arrived at at low tide. I expected it to be remote but there was a relatively large number of people there considering there was no road access. The path was getting progressively steeper and there were some serious climbs in and around midday which weren't enjoyable. I did manage to fit in a 30 minute kip under a large hawthorn bush in the shade which broke the strenuous terrain.

I was caught up by a man who obviously knew the area and an experienced walker himself. Mike is a cartographer who started out producing orienteering maps and is now creating cycling and walking maps for the south east coast. I had many questions and we chatted whilst walking towards the 3rd and final crossing by boat ferry. Using orienteering map software, Mike creates very detailed 1:12500 maps based on Victorian maps as OS maps are protected by a lengthy copyright. fascinating! Thank you for your kind donation Mike. (http://www.croydecycle.co.uk/)

As we were just leaving the Thurlestone Sands area I heard a call of 'Al!'. I discarded the first for someone else but spun around on the second call to see Alice Bennett tearing down the path barefoot! I will be stopping in two days to visit her twin sister who is arriving on Friday, what an incredible coincidence. Alice happened to turn around and recognise me in the 15 second window I was walking past the sandy cove that she was sitting in with Chris and Maureen. The temptation to break early was definitely there, but I decided to continue as planned until Friday. It was still lovely to spend an hour or so sitting on the beach, chatting, catching up etc. and I looked forward to seeing you again soon! Thank you Alice and Chris for your kind donations.

My day ended in the Hope and Anchor pub:
Waitress: The second set of cutlery sir?
Me: No, no. That won't be necessary.

Day 21 - Portwrinkle, Cremyll, Plymouth, Mount Batten

Tuesday 6th August
Total: 419+m  / Daily: 21m  / Blue Skies / Town

Yesterday, a family was sitting on a bench in East Looe and the children were crabbing off the harbour. Crabbing consists of 4 steps:
1. Put bacon in mesh net and tie shut
2. Tie fishing line to net and drop in harbour
3. Raise net with crab grabbing onto the side of the net
4. Put crab in water bucket.
Repeat. 

Anyway, the bacon always seems to be in little red or blue plastic bags and the seaguls seemed to have worked that out too. One doomed herring gul swooped in, stole the bag and sat down with it a little way along the quay. The parents noticed but the children were too busy with their crustacean friends to witness what happened. After a few failed pecks, the herring gul stopping try to get the bacon and started eating the bag. It was actually quite disturbing to watch as it had its beak through one of the little handles, so that once it had swallowed the bag whole, the handle straps were wrapped around its beak then disappeared down its throat. I don't particularly like herring guls, but unless it manages to regurgitate the bag, that bird is not going to have a pleasant time to say the least, I couldn't help but feel sorry for it as it flew off.

I camped in a perfect spot last night and watched the sun set and rise. The sea had calmed a lot and the clouds had blown out, there was a real sense of calm. (see first few photos). Walking along this morning, the mist was literally pouring off the cliffs into the sea, quite spectatular to watch and fun to walk through as I wandered around a golf course looking for the exit path.

A big morning (15m) brought me into Plymouth for a slow afternoon and lunch in various stages along the paved walkways. I've come up with a cunning plan to get me ahead before I take a planned day off on Friday. This plan took some thinking through because I had to juggle ferry times, tide times (the Elme has no ferry), town distances, and days. More details will no doubt appear on future days if it happens but I don't want to commit myself to it just yet. Friday is still a surprisingly long way off.

One ferry across to Mount Batten now then a couple of hours 'easy' walking towards Wembury.

Day 20 - Dowry, Polruan, Polperro, Looe

Monday 5th August
Total: 391+m  / Daily: 18m  / Rain / Composer

It rained all morning. I met a couple walking the opposite direction who were also thinking of doing the 6 mile section I was heading towards but said 'not in the rain'. Cliff and Karen, thank you for your support, and yes, it was rather muddy/slippery in the rain. My poles helped a lot!

Polperro is a lovely little harbour town with tiny thin streets and has a rabbit warren feel about the place. My boots hadn't dried from yesterday and the rain slowly seeped its way into left boot, it began squelching. The heritage museum had lots of spare newspapers which I stuffed into both boots and wrung my socks. I think I'll order up my spare boots from base camp, perhaps sent to Salcombe for the Blitzkrieg assault I have planned on the last 10 days.

Spent two hours in a cafe (£100 per week!) wondering if the rain would stop. It didn't.

I composed my own set of lyrics to a song today. The original is by The Tallest Man on Earth, called Love Is All . Haven't got the guts to post the new lyrics to the world just yet.

Not a thrilling entry, but it rained a lot.

Oh, and the end came off the duct tape pole, wearing down the plastic now.

Day 19 - Gorran Haven, Mevagissey, Charlestown, Par

Sunday 4th August 

Total: 372+m / Daily: 18m / Rain / Requesting an Undulator

An undulator is an escalator which undulates. I needed one of these today as energy levels were a little low following the late nights and the repeated up and down was hard going. The undulator would be free of charge and provided by Cornwall County Council to encourage visitors to experience the stunning coastline it has to offer, specifically those who are unable to walk the path. The Undulator would be a world first and would move at a steady 3mph and be wide enough for two people, allowing users the option of standing or walking. There would be special platforms every 15 minutes which are covered are have hydraulic arms to keep the platform level. This could be used to set up a sleeping pad + bag, meaning that no time is wasted sleeping, based on 8 hours sleep a night, that's 24 miles! As you see from the amount of thought I put into it, I didn't appreciate the undulating coastline today.

It rained a fair amount today. Forecast has it clearing towards the end of the week and I managed to keep dry under waterproofs. Left foot did become a little damp which is worrying as there are no apparent holes in my boot, failed goretex? I'll see what happens tomorrow but my view or waterproof boots might be changing. I think I'm going to try something which isn't waterproof but does dry quickly in the future, that would also remove the need for overtrousers (if it's warm enough).

Yesterday was the first successful day that I didn't spend anything on 'non essentials'. I celebrated that success today with a full cooked breakfast and cream tea. Whoops! I'm funding the walk myself to enable all donations to go to Prostate Cancer in full and I've given myself the figure of approx. £100 per week to spend. This will cover food/ferry/cleaning but will certainly not stretch if I continue with the coffee and cake intake!

Cakes so far: coffee, coffee & walnut, lemon drizzle, date slice, chocolate, cream tea, apple and cider, millionaire shortbread, victoria sponge.

Slept in a wood on Gribbon Head just down from the Daymark tower. It was very windy and the trees provided welcome shelter.

Day 18 - Mylor, Portscalo, Portloe

Saturday 3rd August
Total: 348+m  / Daily: 18m  / Blue Skies / Boat Ride

I forgot to elaborate on growling bushes from yesterday. I've been looking at the blackberry bushes for a while now, mostly green berries, some turning red but nothing black yet. However, yesterday I started seeing a few black berries. Assuming they'd all be bitter I ignored the temptation but one bush was covered with black, large, juicy looking berries. They were higher up and on top of the bush but I could reach, standing right up against it and leaning in slightly. It was at that point a heard a loud, deep growl from very close by. I have absolutely no idea what animal was there, but it was beside my feet and growling, I carried swiftly on!
_____

Showered, rested, dry and thoroughly content was my mood this morning. And that was before Ivor cooked up a storm. Breakfast bagels, with bacon, egg, peppers, mushroom, cheese & chilli sauce. Very American and very delicious. We left the dock mid morning with everyone coming for the ride. The guide gives details of the two ferries needed to cross the estuary. Only need one when the service is being provided for you! I said my goodbyes at Place and got back to it, psychologically prepared for a wet day after looking at Erica's iPad weather. Thank you very much to the Scott's for their hospitality.

Four hours into the baking sun I wondered where the rain was. Ah, those black clouds offshore probably have something to do with it... We'll see.

I walked until late looking for a spot to camp and ended up stumbling upon Gorran Haven. Not keen to walk through the village and out the other side, I pitched on the next flat patch of grass overlooking the harbour. 18 miles is too much for an 11am start, I was shattered and fell asleep very quickly not bothering to inflate my sleeping pad.

Day 16 - Mullion Cove, Lizard, Cadgwith, Coverack

Thursday 1st August

Total: 312+m / Daily:25m / Overcast clearing to Blue Skies / Fat Apples Cafe

I need to start putting the date on these as knowing the date becomes important when you try and plan when to get somewhere to meet someone!

Today I passed mainland England's most southerly point, increasing the checklist which now stands at: 

- SWCP highest point

- World's loudest snorer

- England's most westerly point

- England's most southerly point

High point of the day has to be stumbling across Fat Apples Cafe after walking late into the evening and thereby reducing tomorrow's mileage. I had seen the signs from a mile or so back but had little hope that it would still be open at 8pm. The signs started saying 'Good Cafe' and I began walking faster! Arriving at a clearing, the first thing I noticed was the apple trees and I sign reading 'Wild Camping and WiFi'. Internet access from my tent? Surely such things are not possible! I met Alex and Ed first, who were on the balcony of a nearby building and was soon introduced to the whole family.

They have lived here for 2 years and this is their first season running the cafe business. It was obvious from the very beginning that all of their heart's are in it and even their youngest at 15 talked with enthusiasm about the place. As Jacci said, there is real potential to get creative with what they offer here; they have the space, they obviously have the passion, anything is possible. I will come back when I am next in this part of the world and will buy charcoal, stoves, whatever you have on offer! It will be fascinating to see the development.

I was invited into their home for supper, given local beer to sample (I agree it needs more 'oomph') and treated like a friend. Your hospitality has been flawless and I wish you every success with the business. Thank you.

Other things today

- Met a Prostate cancer sufferer on path

- Saw a cottage being rethatched

- Explored caves at Kynance Cove

- Potentially saved someone's life, informing an Amish family that the beach they were settled on would become cut off by the tide in an hour

- Met a couple who have walked the entire SWCP in stages over a number of weekend each year, thank you for your support.

- Wandered through a disused quarry, zombie apocalypse feel to it

- Bought chips, onion rings, lemon cake, coffee cake (this has to stop!)

- Walked 25 miles and will get to Falmouth tomorrow

Day 15 - Marazion, Praa Sands, Porthleven, Mullion Cove

Total: 294+m / Daily:21m  / Mist + Penetrating Damp / Nothing Much

One thing I forgot to mention in yesterday's entry was the area of St. Loy. An enchanting place, with a largely wooded valley full of conifer trees. The granite stoned houses were carefully hidden from the path by low arched trees turning the path into a covered walkway. Further on, the path appeared on the beach, a beach of large granite boulders with a lovely view back up the valley. This whole area was quite different from the norm of the difference between land and sea being the main feature, it was great.

This morning felt slow but it was brightened after seeing my first geocachers on the path replacing a cache under a bridge as I approached. I said what I was doing and how I'd looked up coastal caches and decided against it after seeing the number of search results. They began telling me about other ones they had found on the coast after gauging my geocaching knowledge, but I said 'no!' and walked on. (...however, I will be looking up finds on 31.07.13 for coastal caches between Marazion and Porthleven).

My £3.99 watch broke over a week ago which has been lovely. I can still  check the time on my phone if I want, but it means I'm not counting down distance based on speed all the time and it's a great conversation starter! I have been telling time based on where the sun is, but that has only given me 'day' or 'night' with today's mist and cloud cover. That also meant that the views this morning, which were suppposed to have a magical quality looking at the castle on St. Michael's Mount looked a little more ominous, impressive nontheless. I managed to get a good photo of a horse galloping along the beach with the island in the background and I waited at a railway crossing with the horse a little later, it was a little odd standing behind a barrier next to a horse!

My slightly more expensive £4.99 walking poles are also struggling. The screws which attach the handles in place have rusted and one of the screw tight adjustments has snapped. This means the end comes straight off but the adjuster is tight, nothing a little duct tape won't fix! This means when I put weight through it, the pole is working as normal, the tape only serves to hold it all together when I lift the pole up (need to be careful of mud).

Resupply in Porthleven gave me 5 more days food and meths for 2 weeks. The man in the builders merchant wanted a demo of the Pepsi stove but another customer arrived just in time. Pitched next to a memorial for the first transatlantic wireless transmission in the early 1900s between Cornwall and Newfoundland. Long grass meant I didn't bother with my sleeping mat and the super thick long grass supported me just like the Tempur Mattress adverts. It was rather windy and a family from New Mexico doubted my spot would be alright, I had faith in MSR (tent brand) but staked it down a little tighter just in case.

I had supper with a growing audience... (see the last two photos) and slept very well.